Day Twenty Two

Jean-Louis Palladin was the French chef that re-invented and re-introduced French food to Americans. At twenty eight, he became the youngest chef in France to earn two Michilin starts. Soon after, in 1979, he ventured over to the USA and opened Jean-Louis at the Watergate in Washington DC. This joint put DC on the food map - some say when the restaurant opened, it became the first time the importance of gastronomy surpassed politics in Washington. Jean-Louis' kitchen spit out many of today's best including Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert. Again, Ripert and Boulud. I mean, c'mon, those guys are good - really, really good. For a kitchen to develop just one of the pair would mean it to be amazing. Jean-Louis' place turned out both of them.

Jean-Louis' influence on sourcing food in America is unparalleled. He was fully committed to sourcing quality foods from people who understood the food. If he couldn't find what he was looking for, he convinced someone to start growing, feeding or fishing for it. Today, there are fisherman in Maine who run lucrative baby eel businesses; Jean-Louis was the one who convinced them to fish for those things. He convinced farmers to plant whatever he wanted and to grow it however he wanted. He taught ranchers how to raise better tasting poultry, veal and pork.

This man fiercely and passionately loved food. Jean-Louis and Head of Everything were buddies, of course. The Head of Everything told us stories about Jean-Louis, including his truffle season ritual; apparently, every year at the start of the season, Jean-Louis would order hundreds of pounds of truffles and store them in a giant, 5 foot tall snifter at the front of the restaurant. If a diner wanted extra truffle, all they needed to do was walk over to the snifter and pull one out. "Ehe was jenerhous to a falt. Ol ehe wanted to du whas feed peepul delichous fuud, no mattur what zhe caust to ehm." This guy made no money. Simply he was not interested in making a living, only in making incredible food.

Jean-Louis died of lung cancer in 2001. It was provoking to listen to the Head of Everything lecture about his friend - he was very sad, but smiled whenever he spoke Jean-Louis' name. It was our best lecture yet. How inspiring and compelling to learn of a predecessor who's intentions were pure. How interesting our world would be if everyone selflessly gave to their talent and passion like Jean-Louis.

A French classic, in honor of the French great:

LA NOIX DE SAINT JACQUES GRILLEE with LE BEURRE BLANC

Ingredients
2-3 Large Dry Scallops (per person)
1 1/2 c. White Wine
1 Shallot, minced
1 Bay Leaf
1 Tsp. Peppercorns
1 Lemon, juiced
1 1/2 c. cream
1/4 lb. butter, cut into small pieces

Methods
-To make the Beurre Blanc, put wine, shallot, bay leaf and peppercorns in a saucepan over a medium heat and simmer for about 10 minutes
-Turn the heat to low and add the lemon juice and cream to the wine reduction
-Over the low heat, whisk the butter into the sauce in three batches
-Strain the sauce and hold it over a low, low heat at a warm temperature, stirring often (since this sauce is an emulsion, if you don't hold it warm it will break)
-Season the scallops liberally with salt, pepper and coat with a little olive oil
-Heat a grill pan on high heat until it is very hot
-Sear the scallops on the grill pan - do NOT force the scallop off the grill pan to turn it - when it is ready to be turned, it will easily lift from the grill pan
-Do not overcook the scallops - they should be slightly translucent in the center (about 2-3 minutes on each side)
-Spoon Beurre Blanc onto plate and place grilled scallops ontop of sauce